Day 56: Indian Springs Stream to Shasta Viewpoint

After their disappearance the previous night, I had guessed that Vick and Ronan might have camped at the next water source up the trail. But there was no sign of them at the rushing stream around the bend, nor did they appear at the next creek, or the next. With no way to contact them, there was nothing to do but hike on alone. The prospect saddened me, as I had gotten used to enjoying the jovial spirit and light-hearted conversation of my new friends. It is very easy to lose a hiking buddy on the trail (one wrong turn at the wrong time and they’re gone), but it would not be the last I saw of Vick and Ronan.

I climbed up in the cool shade of morning past the Castle Crags, a jagged granite rock formation jutting out of the surrounding forest. The weather was hot and water scarce. To fill my bottles I had to trek a third of a mile off-trail to scoop from a stagnant-looking pool ironically named “Heavens Spring”. As I walked along the ridgeline, majestic views of Mount Shasta helped my mollify my melancholy at losing Vick and Ronan. Dusk approached and I found the perfect tentsite to watch the sunset paint the volcanic peak in deep shades of pink and purple, filling my heart with a sense of peace.

Day 54: Gold Creek Junction to Dunsmuir

Bright moonlight was still shining through the mesh ceiling of my tent when I awoke and began to break camp. Vick and Ronan wanted to get into town today, and they somehow convinced me to wake up at 2am to attempt the 40-mile trek to where the trail crosses Interstate 5 near Dunsmuir. I had not yet done any night hiking and was curious to see how I would enjoy it. There was no time to waste so I stuffed a Cliff bar in my mouth, shoved my supplies into my pack and we were off.

For the first couple of miles we hiked along an open ridge under the moon and stars, but the trail soon delved into a narrow creek canyon, forcing us to use our headlamps. There is something very isolating about night hiking, and sounds of animals or creaking trees take on a threatening tone. I lost much of my sense of time and place in the darkness and each bend in the trail felt much like the last. After ten miles we finally reached the end of a long winding descent to the McCloud River, where in the grey light of dawn we took a long break to eat and rest our legs a bit for the long day ahead.

As the day wore on and we notched up mile after mile, the pain in my legs became greater and greater and the skin of my thighs and lower back turned raw from chafing. We took another long and welcome respite at Squaw Valley Creek, jumping off the rocky canyon walls into the cold clear water to escape the hot afternoon sun (which Vick and Ronan did from a dangerous height). By mile 33 we were all hurting and exhausted, and decided to cut off about four miles of trail by taking a shortcut on an old logging road. As we entered the final leg at Castle Crags State Park I sang 80s songs to keep my feet moving. I knew if I stopped walking I wouldn’t be able to start again.

We stumbled to the road aching and hungry and immediately called Kellyfish, the owner of the Crossroads Hiker Hostel, who graciously picked us up. We ordered three extra-large pizzas and finished it all before enjoying a soak in Kelly’s hot tub. My body felt completely worn but I was somewhat amazed that I successfully finished the day, and I soon passed out on a mattress set up in the yard for some well-deserved sleep.