Tag: Crater Lake

Day 70: Mazama Village to Mount Thielsen

There are many different philosophies to hiking the Pacific Crest Trail. Some approach the experience casually, jumping around to different sections depending on weather, timing or simply their own whims. Others attempt to trace a line of continuous footsteps from Mexico to Canada, focused on walking the full distance. And some hikers are purists, not deviating from the official PCT for anything unless forced by a trail closure (and even then a few will try hiking through despite the danger of rockfalls or fire damage).

In Crater Lake National Park, those sticking to the main trail will miss the spectacular views offered by the alternate route along the lake’s rim. I was no purist (if you couldn’t tell already) but I did want to hike in continuous footsteps during my PCT journey. Leaving the campground at Mazama early, I trekked up to the crater rim and looked down into the deepest lake in the United States. The brilliant blue water contrasted starkly with the surrounding arid landscape and light blue sky. I strolled along the western edge, taking my time to enjoy the striking scenery.

After a few miles I reluctantly left the lake behind and plunged into a long, flat stretch through a seemingly neverending forest. At the end I crossed a highway where I found my friend Radek sitting on a log surrounded by 20 or 30 five-gallon jugs of water. Wanting to experience the entire length of the official PCT, Radek had hiked the main route and asked me about the alternate along the crater rim. I showed him some photos and he shook his head, immediately regretting his decision to trek through the hot and uninteresting burn zone that made up the “official” trail. I respected his dedication, however, and noted that Crater Lake would still be there for his next visit: “You always have to leave something to come back to.”

Day 69: High Saddle to Mazama Village

The arcing hike into Crater Lake National Park was hot, dry and largely burned out, but led to a large pot of trail magic at the end. Forced to carry a full three liters of water to make the 20 mile stretch to the park entrance, I doggedly trudged along through a blackened forest, the tall husks of long-dead trees towering overhead but offering little shade. At times the high volcanic peak of Mount Thielsen reared its head above the horizon, and an unknown snow-capped mountain could be seen at one point in the far distance.

I felt relieved when finally I reached the low wooden sign demarcating the border of the park. A short walk down the road led to Mazama Village, the main visitor area complete with campground, small store and most importantly, a restaurant to which I immediately beelined. Extremely thirsty, I gulped down a full 20 ounce soda and refilled my cup twice before my large pizza arrived. While gracelessly shoving whole slices of gooey cheese into my mouth at a table outside, a man sitting a few tables down approached and asked if I was hiking the PCT. I told him about my journey and learned his name was Roger and he was on a roadtrip with his wife. When I finished eating he generously offered to donate some supplies for my trip, including two dehydrated Mountain House meals and a tall Coors beer. I thanked him profusely and we parted ways, wishing one another well as I walked toward the designated thru-hiker campsite reflecting on the kindness of strangers.