The day began pleasantly enough, with the trail winding gently past a string of shimmering lakes. Radek had caught up to me the evening before (I passed him unknowingly when he stopped at an off-trail cabin) and we took a long snack break at Dumbbell Lake, where a narrow, forested peninsula jutted out into the tranquil water. After bypassing the turnoff to Elk Lake Resort I climbed Red Hill, admiring the views of Mount Bachelor and the first of the rugged Three Sisters peaks to the north.
By the time we reached Sisters Mirror Lake the weather had started to turn. Still, I took the opportunity to jump into the glassy water. The cold was bracing but I felt refreshed as we ate lunch on the lake shore, watching the clouds gather over the trail ahead. I had heard that this section of the PCT was especially scenic but the landscape we walked into felt disconcertingly eerie. Ghostly low clouds moved silently among the blasted volcanic rocks and small copses of stunted trees. The brisk wind cut through my thin jacket as I followed Radek to a small pond where several other groups of hikers had set up camp. We found an open spot behind some trees and had dinner. Radek had brought some powdered hot chocolate, and drinking the warm, sweet liquid greatly lifted my dampened spirits. It is amazing how things as simple as a hot beverage can completely transform the trail experience.
Russell on the Road 