The approach to Muir Pass was long, but mostly it was snowy. For almost three full miles leading up to the crest, we tramped past frozen lakes and infrequent rock outcroppings through deepening snow. Bubblewrap, Pioneer, and an Australian friend played catch up with us as we took turns hiking past each other. At last, after a final push up a steep snow hill, we reached the stone beehive-esque shelter at the top. Having been assaulted by blinding light reflecting off the snow for much of the morning, the inside of the hut appeared pitch dark. Soon my eyes adjusted, and together with a large group of international hikers I put my feet up and enjoyed a well-deserved bag of peanut M&Ms.
The trail north of the pass looked straight from the planet Hoth. Glinting ice and snow surrounded us as we slogged our way along the melting boot track, trying to make it to a flat, dry spot to camp before sundown. Beautiful icicle blue water peeked out from the completely frozen Wanda Lake. We crossed sketchy snow bridges, hoping that they wouldn’t collapse and send us into the freezing water running underneath. The sun was approaching the mountain peaks to the west when Meredith started complaining of a sharp pain in her leg. We slowed our pace and took several rest breaks, aiming to get to the next campsite at Evolution Lake. But the pain grew worse, so I decided to set up an emergency camp on a tiny ledge overlooking Sapphire Lake. The view was breathtaking, and while Meredith rested in the tent I watched the last rays of the sun disappear while the moon rose behind Mount Huxley, feeling the cold seep in.
Russell on the Road 