
There are many different philosophies to hiking the Pacific Crest Trail. Some approach the experience casually, jumping around to different sections depending on weather, timing or simply their own whims. Others attempt to trace a line of continuous footsteps from Mexico to Canada, focused on walking the full distance. And some hikers are purists, not deviating from the official PCT for anything unless forced by a trail closure (and even then a few will try hiking through despite the danger of rockfalls or fire damage).
In Crater Lake National Park, those sticking to the main trail will miss the spectacular views offered by the alternate route along the lake’s rim. I was no purist (if you couldn’t tell already) but I did want to hike in continuous footsteps during my PCT journey. Leaving the campground at Mazama early, I trekked up to the crater rim and looked down into the deepest lake in the United States. The brilliant blue water contrasted starkly with the surrounding arid landscape and light blue sky. I strolled along the western edge, taking my time to enjoy the striking scenery.
After a few miles I reluctantly left the lake behind and plunged into a long, flat stretch through a seemingly neverending forest. At the end I crossed a highway where I found my friend Radek sitting on a log surrounded by 20 or 30 five-gallon jugs of water. Wanting to experience the entire length of the official PCT, Radek had hiked the main route and asked me about the alternate along the crater rim. I showed him some photos and he shook his head, immediately regretting his decision to trek through the hot and uninteresting burn zone that made up the “official” trail. I respected his dedication, however, and noted that Crater Lake would still be there for his next visit: “You always have to leave something to come back to.”