Day 72: Oregon Skyline Trail to Rosary Lakes

The thunderstorm which had roared in my dreams through the night cleared by the morning, or so I thought. As I walked by the crystal clear Diamond View Lake on my way back to the main PCT, the bright morning sun began to disappear again behind darkening grey clouds. Fearing being caught out in the open by another storm, I aimed my feet toward Shelter Cove, a small resort nestled against the shores of Odell Lake. I wasn’t quite fast enough, however, and the skies opened up in a bone-drenching downpour. Following the trail along a creek swollen with rainwater, I eventually reached the paved road leading to the resort.

Shelter Cove certainly lived up to its name. As soon as I arrived I ducked under the giant tent the managers had graciously set up for PCT hikers, finding a treasure trove of discarded ramen packets and half-empty peanut butter jars. When the heavy rain started to subside I made my way over to the small cafe where I enthusiastically ordered a burger and beer to warm my stomach. My friend Radek, who had taken the official route, then appeared and we decided to hike out together once the storm finally broke.

We found a beautiful campsite on a small wooded isthmus between two lakes. It had hailed during the thunderstorm but the tiny balls of ice quickly melted. I set up my tent on a dry patch of pine needles. The rain returned as Radek and I ate dinner. We didn’t linger and I was soon warm and dry in my down sleeping bag. Unfortunately the delicious burger I had so enjoyed at Shelter Cove did not agree with my stomach, and I was forced to abandon my little sanctuary to go dig a cathole. Doubly unlucky was my location directly in between two lakes, which meant I had to trek a fair distance up a hill in the dark and wet to get far enough to avoid contaminating the water. For the second time that day I wasn’t quite fast enough, and what had been a cozy if damp evening turned into an uncomfortable and messy night. Good thing I brought that extra pair of underwear.

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